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Inside Naples’ World-Famous Pizza Culture


Travel March For hundreds of years, artisans in the southern Italian city have been cooking up the ultimate fast food. Franz Lidz; Photographs by Francesco Lastrucci.

In the age of social distancing, Italians wondered if smooching would soon go the way of the Roman Empire. One hundred and forty miles down the coast, in Naples, where restaurants were twice shut down in lengthy lockdowns, natives mulled a more existential threat: La morte della pizza.

Faced with a financial meltdown of Pompeiian proportion, the pizzerias of Naples tweaked their centuries-old business models to fit the moment, ushering in such previously blasphemous practices as home delivery and—heaven forfend! So I doubt the public will forget. Naples is the birthplace—and, as any Neapolitan will tell you, the spiritual homeland—of pizza. Your execution must be meticulous, because if you let quality slip, you are cheating on your family tradition, which is like cheating on your wife.

When a pie is so dough-centric, you get a totally different outcome than if the toppings are the focus of the event. Consisting of only water, salt, yeast and highly refined wheat flour, Neapolitan dough is the most elemental of all formulas, but the apparent simplicity hides a great complexity.

The maestros allow their dough to ferment anywhere from 12 hours to several days. The only thing that keeps it from levitating above their heads are gently oozing splodges of buffalo mozzarella from the marshlands of the southern Apennines and blobs of pulpy plum tomatoes, grown in the volcanic soil of Mount Vesuvius.

This combination of bright acidity and sweet, cheesy smoothness inhabits that taste space the Japanese call umami , or pleasant savory flavor. A Neapolitan pie is designed to be consumed fresh and hot, as close as possible to the igloo-shaped oven in which it was cooked. Though some American pizzerias reach those lofty heights, most Americans buy their pizzas frozen or eat them at churn-and-burn pie chains. The dough has been turbo-boosted with sugar to rise quickly, and an unctuous sea of cheese and meat has been piled atop rubbery underdone or brittle overdone crusts, sometimes occurring in the same pizza.

The quality of the tomato sauce? Not a consideration. Louis , no variation, no matter how delicious, is as central to the local culture as pizza surely is to Naples. Four hundred years ago, Caravaggio revolutionized painting with a chiaroscuro style reflecting the splendor and squalor of Naples—brightness and light contrasted with the blackness of deep, menacing shadow. His documentary Passione is a rapturous celebration of Neapolitan music. Sprawling and endlessly vibrant, Naples marries joyous confusion with a sense of mild danger.

Along those narrow alleys, wrought-iron balconies drip with buntings of faded laundry, and walls are buried beneath layers of posters, graffiti and grime. The stand expanded to a restaurant with chairs and tables in , replacing many of the street vendors.

Twelve years later, Ferdinand II of the Two Sicilies, otherwise known as King Nasone big nose , came incognito to the pizzeria to survey the mood of his people. Luciano is a sixth-generation pizzaiolo with shambling charm and a studiously unkempt style. Since the tomato sauce has been gathered and protected in the folds, Luciano recommends holding the pie out away from your shirtfront.

Luciano is 59 and has been making pizzas for the last 46 of those years. He says that not far from his pizzeria, in the Greco-Roman ruins beneath the 18th-century cloister at San Lorenzo Maggiore, are the remains of a first-century A.

Roman market, a shopping arcade and a proto-Neapolitan pizza oven. Similar baking chambers, with hollow spaces to insulate hot air, drafts for smoke and terra-cotta tile floors, were found during excavations at nearby Pompeii and Herculaneum. Inside some were loaves of bread, preserved in charcoal, covered in ash and stamped to identify the baker.

One 2,year-old loaf was divided into eight wedges and inscribed: Celer, slave of Quintus Granius Verus. The story of pizza, says Luciano, dates to Neolithic times, when tribes baked a crude batter on the stones of their campfires. The Neapolitan variant was the product of two cultures, Greek and Etruscan.

The Greek city-states feasted on plakous , a flat and round cheese pie with a rim of crust that served as a kind of handle. From the eighth century to the fifth century B. At about the same time, says Luciano, the Etruscans left Asia Minor and settled in the northern and central parts of Italy.

Their pizza dough precursor was a sort of grain mush baked in the stones beneath cooking ashes and topped with herbs and seasoned oils. After swallowing Etruscan folkways whole, the Romans renamed the ashcakes panis focacius fireplace flour bread , which evolved into focaccia. Luciano grabs a tomato from a ceramic bowl, holds it aloft and sinks his teeth into the fleshy pulp.

In the early 16th century, Spanish conquistadors returned from the New World with an exotic, yellow, cherry-size fruit that the Aztecs called the tomatl. Fear and loathing were quick to follow. In , the Italian botanist and physician Pietro Mattioli was the first to formally classify the plant, likening it to a cross between mandrake and deadly nightshade—both poisonous.

Word spread that wealthy people got sick and died after consuming tomatoes, and for some years, most Europeans avoided them like the plague, which, incidentally, nearly eradicated the population of Naples during the mids. As it turns out, says Luciano, it was all a big misunderstanding. The wealthy ate their food off pewter, an alloy with a high lead content. The poor, on the other hand, used plates made of wood. Pizza took a little longer. The 19th-century slight elicits a laugh from Luciano.

Oven logs crackle continuously in a low, ominous mutter as he pads through the age-softened galley, occasionally lifting up the crusts of pies to check that they are properly cooked—elastic, but not limp and not burned like toast. This was 28 years after the unification of Italy, and the pie she liked best bore the colors of the new national flag: tomato red, mozzarella white and basil green. So pleased was Her Highness that she sent Esposito a letter of thanks. So flattered was Esposito that he named this tricolor sensation the margherita.

The patron saint of Neapolitan pies is Sophia Loren, who grew up just outside the city. Though Neapolitan pizza-making is dominated by men, the wives of pizzaioli played a key role after World War II, hawking fried pizza—the original pie, born before the oven-baked variety—to the poor.

The peppery scent of basil and the aroma of warm dough precede the place, a pair of dining rooms watched over by a statue of St. Antonio Abate, the patron saint of bakers, enshrined in a neon-lit glass cabinet. Da Michele is the most determinedly traditional of all the Naples pizzerias.

Paterfamilias Salvatore Condurro got his license to make pizza in He prepared and sold fried pizza on the street outside his home. The cornicione must not rise above four-fifths of an inch. Of all the chefs dreaming up ethereal Neapolitan pizzas, none is as learned as Enzo Coccia.

He changed the way modern pies are made and brought respectability to the craft. La Pizza Napoletana , the handbook he co-wrote in , bubbles over with sprightly entries such as. Among the surprising flavor combinations on his more avant-garde pies: eggplants and mint burrata; broad beans and asparagus; and lemon, licorice and zucchini pesto. Pepperoni, an American invention, is a Naples no-no. A terrible pizza chef who uses excellent raw materials will produce terrible pizzas, and an excellent pizza chef who uses terrible raw materials will also produce terrible pizzas.

Nothing is more critical than the quality of ingredients. Except maybe the baking chamber. Coccia notes that Neapolitan pizza ovens have unique thermal properties, incorporating three means of heat transfer: conduction, convection and radiation. The brick floor cooks the pie by direct contact, or conduction. The curved interior circulates hot air throughout the chamber convection , and heat absorbed into the masonry radiates from the dome.

With a single pizza, no problem. But when four or five bake at once, anyone less than a master is likely to cremate them all. Like many restaurants in Italy, the pizzerias of Naples were hit hard by the pandemic. He estimates that his business was down some 75 percent. The outlook got rosier over the summer, but on October 25, after coronavirus deaths in Italy had tripled in a month, the state imposed a strict curfew: Restaurants were forced to close at 6 p.

I ask Coccia to name a Neapolitan pizzaiolo at the pinnacle of his profession. Bachetti, who shapes the pies at Pizzeria Da Attilio , is smiling but ascetic, a lovable obsessive whose devotion to pizza is complete.

The son of a pizzaiolo who himself was the son of a pizzaiolo, he began his apprenticeship at age 6. Da Attilio is an unpretentious gastronomic shrine smack in the middle of the lively Pignasecca market. You are greeted at the door by Maria Francesca Mariniello, daughter-in-law of the Attilio Bachetti who opened the joint in and mother of the Attilio Bachetti who presides over it now.

The walls are blanketed in press clippings, celebrity photos and framed napkin doodles, many of which picture the chef molding his precise and studied creations. Pressing his fingertips gently from the center of the bloat toward the edges, he gingerly massages, punches, stretches and turns it back on itself. He spreads a few tablespoons of tomato sauce over the dough, crowns it with cheese and herbs, drizzles on olive oil, and pulls the edges of the crust taut over the small, round palette of a palino , a long-handled, stainless steel turning peel.

Then he slides the impasto into the glowing mouth of the oven and gently rotates the pie while it cooks. After a minute, he centers the palino under the crust and lifts it slightly to give the underside a final char, a technique known as doming. On the journey between plate and mouth, the bouncing strings of molten cheese seem to be alive. Franco has achieved perfection through his mastery of pizza-making.

It feels almost like he invented pizzas and the rest of us are just copying him. Deliberately working outside Naples and the reach of the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, Pepe excels by breaking all the laws governing Neapolitan pizza. On this mild Mediterranean evening, Pepe lopes through his restaurant looking happy, proud, at peace. Pepe in Grani is housed in a restored 18th-century palazzo in the old Roman hill town of Caiazzo, located about an hour or so northeast of Naples.

I know instinctively how dough should feel. Day by day, to suit the weather and humidity, I change the mix, the leaven times, the quantity of yeast.

I never refrigerate the dough. Mechanical technique will not help.


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gamut di 150 8th

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Travel March For hundreds of years, artisans in the southern Italian city have been cooking up the ultimate fast food. Franz Lidz; Photographs by Francesco Lastrucci. In the age of social distancing, Italians wondered if smooching would soon go the way of the Roman Empire. One hundred and forty miles down the coast, in Naples, where restaurants were twice shut down in lengthy lockdowns, natives mulled a more existential threat: La morte della pizza. Faced with a financial meltdown of Pompeiian proportion, the pizzerias of Naples tweaked their centuries-old business models to fit the moment, ushering in such previously blasphemous practices as home delivery and—heaven forfend!

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