Dm2a speakers
November 22, , PM Welcome, Guest. Please login or register. Member Offline Location: South Buckinghamshire. UK Posts: Hi Dennis - thanks for that information.
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New user here so be gentle. This morning one of the speakers failed, I had been doing some work fitting some external fans onto the amplifier as it was running hot. Since then, dead speaker. I took it apart earlier and its a DM2A Issue 2 circuit board, checked some of the circuit diagrams on here and thought the culprit was the 10 ohm resistor at R1 had got hot and failed as I could see heat damage on the circuit board.
However once I removed the R1 resistor and tested it on the multimeter it was reading just about a perfect 10 ohms. I have attached some images of the board apologies if I have used the wrong image host for here, however I'm no audiophile nor an expert on speakers and I am quite stuck to diagnose the issue here so any suggestions or pointers very much welcome.
Can you explain what was going on when the speaker failed? If you can measure a 10ohms resistor, you should be able to measure the voice coil resistance of each of the drivers in isolation. I guess somewhere between ohms will at least suggest if the drive units are serviceable, An open circuit or a value greater than 16 ohms could be an indicator of the problem. You probably should hear a crackle from the driver as you connect the dvm probes when trying to measure the voice coil resistance.
Be gentle as these are old speakers now and the wiring tags maybe fragile. I was trying to fix a "crackle" in the left hand speaker, I originally thought it was down to a bad connection somewhere and renewed the bare wire connections to the speakers using Nakamichi banana plugs and everything worked fine, but while I was testing it out I found the top of the amp to be getting rather warm Its a Sony TA-FBR and ordered a pair of USB powered AC Infinity fans to go on top of the amp to pass air over the heatsinks.
When I re-powered the amp the right side worked fine, but nothing out of the left speaker, I tried the cables in the "B" output of the amp and got the same, tested the cables for continuity and they were fine, tested the output of the amp and got around 14V. I even tried plugging the right hand cables in as a test and it was still dead. The speaker drivers all sound right they all "crackled" softly when I used the test probes.
Is there a fuse at the rear connector panel? I had to ask as some speakers from that era had a fuse on a nameplate or rear panel? A 14V ac signal would be rather loud i imagine into these loudspeakers if working well. I hope you do not mean you measured 14V dc at the output? If the drivers alone connected to the amp are working, and if connected to the crossover all don't, then it is a fuse broken.
No fuse and apologies for the typo the output was 14 mV. I take it that the other capacitors slowly increase resistance when measured and quickly swapping the leads causes them to show low and then again slowly increase resistance which is what you would expect. Old things can be problematical, I am one. Loose wire, corrosion or soldering, a small hairline crack on a pcb trace etc the switch assembly but that should only effect the mid range.
Wiring loom and traces should be below 1ohm when checked for continuity. Now that Ralf has given us a link to the Xover it should be easier to diagnose the issue. When you connect the bad speaker can you hear the amp protection relay click across to protect the amp assuming it has a protection circuit? Last edited by raymondj; 14th March at AM.
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Bowers and Wilkins DM2
Posted by Mark Jago on Nov 8, in Featured. Because they can still be a very good alternative to paying a lot of cash for a new pair floor standing speakers. Personally I prefer the wider DM2a cabinets with appropriate stands and the black speaker grills that blend in nicely with my 50 inch Samsung plasma TV. This is not a case of over powering the driver more likely related to flux not being fully removed from the coil wire solder connections to the stranded wire going to the terminals having over time it has degraded the connection. Proof of success is measured by the quality of sound reproduction using various music examples at different volume levels.
Replacing Bowers & Wilkins DM2a Subwoofer Drivers
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Bowers & Wilkins DM2A Instruction Manual
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B&W DM2 speakers
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Suitable amp for B&W DM2a speakers
David, aka Grumpy, needs our help. Great news. David is home! It was quite the ordeal to get him home and into the house, but it is done. Thank you to everyone for their support. Now a long road ahead to get him back on his feet and functioning normally.
Bowers and Wilkins speakers
This speaker case has black marks in the grain of the veneer , not good cosmetically. With the grill off. Driver unit. Not sure what this unit is?
What speakers are these??
RELATED VIDEO: Yamaha ns1000m vs Diatone 77hrThis seller has not set a shipping cost for Russian Federation. Please contact them to ask about shipping. Enjoy peace of mind with your new gear. Also, some of the velcro pieces that hold the grills on are losing some glue or are not attached, though the grills hold perfectly securely. For their age, this is an excellent example of classic British monitors in fantastic condition.
SHOP ALL SPEAKERS
We're celebrating all things British hi-fi this week on What Hi-Fi? This list includes some big, some small, some heavenly high-end, some much more affordable — but all straight from the top draw when it comes to performance-per-pound value. Our verdict? The hi-fi industry has been, and continues to be, spoilt with British engineering talent, as you can see for yourself from the following list of superlative hi-fi speakers The original Wharfedale Diamonds were the seeds for what has become one of the most successful speaker ranges of all time. While speakers these days come in more shapes and sizes than ever before, these pint-sized efforts, standing at just 24cm high, were designed for those who needed a speaker to fit into a tight space. They had a particularly praiseworthy midrange and bass considering their budget price, though they were slightly fussy in terms of partnering kit, working better with more upmarket amplification.
A few years ago these were my main shop speakers. But they have killed or crippled four amplifiers. This process takes a few weeks, it does not happen at once — thus causing me to check or replace everything in the chain but the actual speakers. Rather taking them out back and shooting them, I shelved them but now it is time to give them one last chance for rehabilitation.
Don't understand everyone.