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Dared vacuum tube amplifier vp-16 facebook

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I thank you ahead if some of you already helped out with my previously related post. I like every tube you mentioned all have strong points and week points Push Pull will always feel more powerful as they usually are. SET will tend to have a more romantic mid range but suffer at the freq extremes. I'm actually surprised your getting satisfying sound from your 8wch SET driving those speakers at 88db they are not efficient.

Thanks glenn for info. Yeah, I've been pleasantly surprised with B SET, seems that many people have the false assumption that B SET is automatically bad for anything non-flat 8ohm and less than 92db sensitivity. So far my SET amp is the best performer among above though no where nearly perfect. Hence I'm looking for economy way to get more power for comparison. Thank you all for your thoughts so far. I love the clarity and transparency of B SET, guess this is the famous addiction. Couple clarification I have for anyone who can help,.

Anyone with experience with sound quality of parallel SET or ? Do really give out space heater like heat? Should I entertain more expensive B amps with heavier transformers like those from Sophia Electric?

One of the prices you pay with higher power SETs is that they might play bass and they might play highs, but not both at the same time. The bigger the amp is, the more this is the case. LOG IN. Hi All, I thank you ahead if some of you already helped out with my previously related post. Edit Delete. That holds up regardless of whether the EL34 runs in triode, ultralinear, or pentode operation.

Some may try to draw parallels as the midrange of each tube represents its strength. Likewise, I disagree with folks who feel the , , or represent the best sounding SETs. The 45, 2A3, and B, in that order generally grade out at the top of the more widely implemented types, though an obviously less sympathetic loudspeaker requires those larger tubes.

If I may, my suggestion is to hold on to the Dared B SET you like so much, and seek out a better partner in the loudspeaker. Honestly while it was very good I wasn't completely floored, maybe my expectations too high. Keep the B and W speakers. Find the right amp configuration and you will have a very nice system.

These speakers are simply as good as the signal feeding them. Every time I have upgraded my system in any way my speakers show it immediately. I have the B and W D3s.

You've likely found yourself in the unfortunate position of loving two components that do not mate well together. Again, I think because both the EL34 and B excel in the midrange some may want to draw comparisons even if hearing them side by side in two amplifiers implemented as similarly as they can come to allow an apples to apples comparison produces starkly different sound.

One can always find exception with what I say going forward, but except in less typical situations, these descriptions should hold up The EL34 has a tighter, more focused, more extended, and less romantic sound than the B. The EL34 produces low-frequency extension that easily walks away from the B. And of course, there comes the issue of output; one can obviously build a high-powered amplifier running EL34 far more easily than the B.

The right EL34 in the right amplifier can produce a stunningly glorious midrange that reminds one of sunshine itself. The B can paint the sort of beautiful colors no EL34 can. Both tubes do well in the treble, but if one finds a situation where things get a bit too hot, it will be the EL34 rather than the B.

More than comparing the two tubes, I mentioned other factors contributing to how an amplifier sounds. It's taken me a long time to walk down this road. Conventional wisdom often holds transformers represent the most critical aspect of a tube amplifier. I used to follow that as so many have said it, but experience has taught me the effects of the rest of the amplifier, and I now consider that overstated.

More than obviously, we overlook the differences in SET versus push-pull operation holding the highest position, even when the latter employs triode connection of the output tubes. After that, fixed bias versus cathode bias yield something akin to yin and yang, though it's the other way around. Most know about tube versus solid state rectification, but even within that, directly versus indirectly heated tube rectifiers produce noticeable differences.

That's another advantage of SET as it has NO phase splitter, and the driver circuitry tends to the simplistic. There are some exotic and expensive SET amplifiers that might do justice to your speakers - such as the Kronzilla that uses a pair of T tubes. Otherwise, you are stuck with making a choice. The issue here appears to be that even though this system appears to work, as Trelja points out, neither the amp or speaker is being shown in its best light.

IOW, it can get a whole lot better, but to do so you either need a lot more power not available from an SET or get a speaker that is a good db more efficient! This despite how good it seems to sound right now; but the OP is correct in his surmise that more power or more efficiency will help things out. The problem is that SETs have bandwidth limits that get more pronounced with the greater power they can make.

That is why the lower power units sound better. BTW, there was one comment about push-pull having crossover distortion; this is not true in most cases. Crossover distortion is an artifact of class B operation, and to my knowledge no home audio gear employs class B, so that's a bit of a red herring.

It is the most common complaint against push-pull, but as best I can make out, is mostly borne out of not understanding push-pull technology all that well. Couple clarification I have for anyone who can help, - Based on my research, my next best option up would be to get a Bx4 parallel SET like Consonance Reference 5. Thanks all. Some transformers are potted, and so appear larger and heavier than they really are. Seriously, if you plan to keep your speakers, you'll have a lot more luck with an amp of considerably more power- and it won't be SET.

I'm just a regular white collar Joe so naturally I'm trying to spend as little as possible. I love clear, transparent but warm sound hate neutral. Only few people may agree but I firmly believe good sound comes from high current not high watts even though inter-related to some degree. Again thanks to all who's helping me on my quest to higher current! AVR watts are generally not the best quality since the purpose is mostly for home theatre applications.

Current does not exist without voltage, and together the two are power. Its a mathematical relationship! The reason 'neutral' usually solid state, as opposed to 'warm' might seem unpleasant is due to how the amp distorts. In the case of solid state, the distortion seems minimal, but to the ear it is not, as the distortion in question is all higher ordered harmonics, to which the ear is keenly sensitive the ear uses these harmonics to sense sound pressure, so has to be able to deal with db range, hence the sensitivity.

Tube amps generally don't make as much higher ordered harmonics and so sound smoother and more detailed. Tubes usually do make more distortion overall, but its mostly lower orders and the ear simply is less sensitive to the lower orders. In a way, you can argue that tubes more closely adhere to the rules of human hearing perception. In a nutshell.

I'd be looking at something with 60 watts or so. You can find amps of that power inside of your budget, and that is significantly more power and likely lower distortion and wider bandwidth too than what you are running right now- you'll notice the improvement instantly! SETs appeal to a lot of people. They often then start a quest to chase down a sympathetic loudspeaker to mate with them.

If you do want a warm sound in a more powerful tube amplifier you may want to consider some of the BAT, Cary, Conrad Johnson, Jadis, and Quicksilver push-pull offerings.

That said, in going there you likely give up what draws you to your current SET amplifier. Coincidentally, I was the North American importer for Consonance. Just to clarify, the Reference 5. If you want to go in the PSE direction, I recommend the Cyber B PSE monoblocks as a much better alternative, but still won't meet your current needs, as they are also seriously deficient in the low-end.

Consonance also produced great midrange, not much low-end and good low-end, overly dark and veiled midrange versions of the Cyber monoblocks, which work best with back-loaded horn loudspeakers. As I previously stated, neither of those larger tubes produce what people like so much about B amplifiers. SETs have ridden this popularity wave for more than 20 years, and with it, the larger tubes. So many people have found themselves in the same situation as you, loving the lower wattage amplifiers, but wishing for more output to adequately drive their loudspeakers.

If the larger SETs represented the solution, they would have already caught on in a big way. As things are, the B handily outsells them, for good reason.

To provide acceptable power and bass response, you may also want to consider push-pull triode amplifiers, using B, or even better, 2A3 tubes. If you are willing to give up the SET topology yet stay with the B tube, Canary Audio has a number of push pull amps that will drive your speakers.

An amplifier that operates push-pull with bs is likely not in the budget as proposed. Suggest you reach out to aricaudio and see if he can be of help. All the best. As a suggestion, you may want to seek out a Consonance Cyber 10 Signature. It's an integrated amplifier, using 2A3 triode output tubes in push-pull configuration, and a Mullard long tail pair driver stage.

Not a huge number exist, as the amplifier looks all wrong on paper. It's a product I had to work harder than any other to sell, as everyone including myself dismisses it out of hand without even a listen, but I believed in it that much after hearing it and living with it. It's a deceptively wonderful amplifier, and in my experience, one of their best products across board.


LM-805iA Integrated tube amplifier - Single Ended 805 - 2x48W

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The transistor was first seen as a compact, solid state replacement for vacuum tubes; integrated circuits were invented more than a decade.

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dared vacuum tube amplifier vp-16 facebook

What you pay for is what you get. The Dared VP will not give you the commanding authority of the VP, which is almost 4 times its price and double its weight. But the VP is definitely a small wonder in its own right. With every calibration on the audiophile's yardstick, from timbre and ambience to transients, from soundstage and dimensionality to detailed action of the instruments, the Dared VP is accomplished in full measure.

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Dared VP-845LE User Manual

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Dared VP-16 Tube Amplifier with original box

It delivers 2x48W power. The rear-illuminated front panel meter is used to adjust the polarization of the tubes. The use of high-quality components Mundorf N-Cap capacitors, ALPS potentiometer wired in the air for the most part is the guarantee of exemplary reliability.

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The Swollen Pickle MKII surrenders super high-gain fuzz with copious amounts of smooth low-end to all who dare plug into it. With a twist of the Sustain control, you're taken from mild crunch to Armageddon!

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Equipped with symmetrical and asymmetrical inputs, they offer a power output of 50 Watts through a pure class A output stage with no feedback. Since its introduction in , the VPA has won prestigious awards and, more importantly, become a reference for a tremendous number of audiophiles all over the world. The VPA Uses a pair of matched and individually selected output tubes the VPA offers a clarity of sound second-to-none, and has become a reference to audiophiles worldwide.




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