Audioengine a2 student s book
One of the often overlooked formats in the focus on digital versus print books is the audiobook, a separate entity that—despite a long standing history—still gets relegated to only certain titles. Through the launch of companies like Audible and the later ACX platform, audiobooks are currently enjoying a resurgence among old and new fans alike. Findaway World, a company that has partnered with publishers around the globe to produce audio renditions of titles, has a catalog of more than 50, audiobooks, but offers them in unique and innovative ways through its digital platform and through its Playaway devices. Playaways, a concept whose technology seems backwards at first glance, is actually a brilliant tool for putting audiobooks in front of as many listeners as possible, specifically in school, library, and even deployed military outposts. The devices are essentially MP3 players that contain only one book, making it possible for a large number of patrons to borrow the preloaded devices.
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Content:
- Desktop/computer speakers, audiophile recommendations
- Ue4 custom k2node
- Headphones and Speakers for College Students—for Masking Noise and Making It
- Robot or human?
- Best computer speakers of 2020
- Spotify Dives Into Audiobooks With Acquisition of Findaway
- Working with Audio
- DAC or AMP for Audioengine A2+
Desktop/computer speakers, audiophile recommendations
My audiophile friend is giving someone a pair of speakers for a holiday gift. To go with those speakers he came to me to commission a simple pair of speaker stands. The design was pretty open ended, he just wanted them to be heavy, "shiny", match the footprint of the speakers, and look good with the white version of these speakers.
This is how I built the speaker stands - and yes, I made it at Techshop. The first picture is the finished speaker stands on my home computer table, the second picture is a model of the stands with the speakers in Sketchup. This project was a great learning experience for me. I've got a lot of experience working with wood this past year, but really haven't tried many finishing options - this was my first time trying a laquer finish.
My results were not perfect, but I think they were pretty good - especially for my first attempt at using laquer. Also, my friend wanted the stands to be "as heavy as possible. I was happy with the results - each stand weighs just over 4 lbs, with the weight evenly distributed so it feels like the wood is just really heavy.
They took me perhaps hours actual labor time to build, spread out over several days to allow time for glue and laquer to fully cure. I also spent a lot more time experimenting with techniques that were new to me. As always, I'm still a novice woodworker, not a professional, if you have any comments or suggestions to help improve this instructable, please share it in the comments!
I love hearing feedback, and want to improve my own work and my instructables. I always buy my lumber rough, because it saves a lot of money and offers a much wider variety than pre-milled lumber. Joint and plane the pieces well, most importantly the faces - later we'll be laminating gluing the faces together. Run one face through the jointer until it is level, then run one edge through the jointer until it is level. Then run the piece through the planer, with the jointed face down on the bed.
The thickness doesn't matter, I just wanted to preserve as much material as possible. Cutting to size My friend wanted the speaker stand to closely match the footprint of the speakers he bought.
That footprint is 4" X 5. He also wanted the height of the stands to be about 4" tall - they will be set on the dresser in the recipient's bedroom, and this will place them about ear-height for listeners who are sitting down. I cut these pieces from two 26" long pieces of lumber. Big surprise When I cut into the wood, I saw white, milky splotches on the end grain. I had no idea what to think about this - I had chosen the wood because it had a nice, dark chocolate color, and couldn't see the white marks in the rough lumber.
At first I was worried, because by themselves, the splotches didn't look so good, but I continued and I'm glad I did. When I cut the pieces a second time - cutting off the un-jointed edge of the wood, I found that on the edge and face grain, these splotches turn into nice swirly streaks.
In the end, I really liked the streaks, especially after I played around with the grain patterns. I'll definitely be using Peruvian walnut in the future to see what else I can do with the streaks. Serendipitous design At first I was going to make the inside of the block completely hollow, filling it with lead or steel buckshot. I was going to cut out the center of the two middle blocks and give the top and bottom blocks rabbeted "lips" to fit exactly into the center cavity.
But then I figured out that it was going to be much harder to fit the pieces together than I originally thought, and I found fishing weights to use instead of buckshot, so I abandoned that design. However, I was still left with the rabbeted lips on the top and bottom. I thought about just shaving them off and making the whole stand one solid block again - but I kind of liked the look of the twin grooves on the stand last picture - so I kept them as decorative features.
Cutting the rabbets To make the rabbets, I used a bearing guided rabbeting bit mounted in the router table. When working on the edges, move the workpiece straight over the bit, pressing the edge against the bearing. Be slow and careful when you get to the corners to avoid chipping off pieces. Keeping things in order I played with the streak pattern, rearranging the different pieces of the stand until I got a pattern that I liked.
Then I made sure to label all the parts to keep track of them. In this step I will be drilling holes to put lead weights into the middle two sections of the stands. I didn't want to accidentally drill into the wrong piece, or drill into the wrong side of a piece, so I labeled them "L" for left and "R" for right, along with "" for top to bottom pieces, and wrote "drill" on the faces I wanted to drill.
Drilling the holes To drill the holes I used a forstner bit, which is a special drill bit for making clean, flat bottomed holes. I wanted the weights to be distributed evenly across the stand, so that no one side would feel lopsided. I used some scrap pieces of MDF cut to the same size as the speaker stand to test the layout of my drill holes.
First I measured the lead weights - each one was just over 1. I made test cuts until I could make 4 evenly spaced holes in each piece, then I clamped the stop blocks to make easy, repeatable cuts. Then I just took each of the four middle blocks, pressed them firmly against the scrap-wood stop blocks, and drilled the holes. Double checking After drilling, I test fit weights in the holes.
Several holes were JUST a bit to shallow - when I put the pieces together there was a gap between them - so I had to re-drill a few of the holes. If I did this again, I would go ahead drill a little deeper than necessary - there's no harm in drilling just a little more.
Since these lead weights were once fishing lures, they each had brass rings molded into them. These had to come off to fit in the drilled holes. I used a pair of vise grips to grab and rip each ring out of the weight, and then used a hammer to flatten any pieces of metal left over from the ring.
Lead is a soft metal, so these were easy to hammer flat. Make the pieces flush I started by sanding the sides with 80 grit sandpaper on the orbital sander to even out small ridges at the glue joints. Be careful when close to the corners, you don't want to round them off with the sander. When the edges are all flush and the faces are flat, take a break from sanding and move onto the router. We'll finish finer sanding later. Rounding the top and bottom edges was easy - even the prone-to-splitting end grain cut easily.
The weight of the stand made it very easy to control the cuts. Ease the first corner into the bit until it reaches the guide bearing, then firmly rotate the stand around the guide bearing to cut all edges. Routing the sides of the stand proved a little more difficult - the groove that I chose to put around the middle of the stands required extra care when moving over the router bit.
I started the same way, gently easing the first corner into the bit, against the bearing. But when I came close to the groove, I slowed down and gently pulled the stand away from the router, then lowered it again on the other side of the groove. I did make a mistake with one of the corners - I didn't pull the stand away in time and a piece was chipped off the edge.
Luckily it wasn't too big, so I just accepted it, but it's something to be aware of. If I did this project again, I would skip making the groove earlier, leaving the stands as solid blocks. It's probably easier to add decorative details like the groove after rounding off all the edges. This is the final step before applying the finish. With the clear laquer finish I am applying, it is very important to prepare the surface well.
Imperfections and scratches from sanding instantly become more visible the moment laquer is sprayed on the surface, so it pays to take your time and sand well. I hand sanded with 80 grit paper, then grit and grit. Sand the whole piece evenly - don't focus too much on one area or sand one face too aggressively, which can harm the nicely rounded corners. I went ahead and sanded both pieces by hand instead of using a power sander.
This step can be tedious, and to be honest I don't think I followed my own advice so well. About most of the surface looked good, but there were a few spots that just didn't get enough attention. The biggest problem was the tell-tale swirls left from my earlier power sanding. I should have taken more time at the beginning with lower grit paper to make sure I erased these swirls. As you sand, look at and feel the surface carefully to look for scratches from the sandpaper.
Each time you move up a grit, you should be erasing the scratches from the previous grit of paper. If you see any persistant scratches, you may need to drop back down to a lower grit to smooth everything out. This step is pretty simple - first find a clean location that you don't mind getting a little messy. Make sure that the area you are working in is dust free - even small particles of dust can get stuck in the finish, and are difficult to get out once they land.
Also, make sure the area is well ventilated. Techshop has a spray booth with built in fans for this type of work, but it was occupied at the time - so I just took it to the wide open assembly room. Don't do this in a closed room - the fumes from the laquer disappear quickly, but they are potent. I used a spray version of Deft laquer - I chose it because this is a small workpiece, and this is my first time applying a laquer finish, so I wanted the smallest, cheapest container.
The laquer can also be brushed on - choose whatever method you are most comfortable with. Evenly coat all sides of the stand with the laquer. Then wait. The Deft instructions said let it dry for 30 minutes, which was about right. In my case, I sprayed a bit too aggressively - some of the sides had laquer running down them, with drip trails left behind. At first I was really worried, but then looked online and found an easy solution.
These drips are called runs and sags - to avoid them, don't apply the laquer too heavily, and don't move the workpiece while wet. They can be fixed by gently slicing or scraping off the extra dried laquer with a razor blade, as described in the link. I applied 4 coats of laquer total. I later read articles online that suggest sanding the laquer down with - grit sandpaper, then applying another 4 or more coats.
I think it depends on the project - 4 coats worked well for my purposes - if I was making a larger, finer piece of furniture I would probably add more coats. Reply 8 years ago on Introduction.

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Headphones and Speakers for College Students—for Masking Noise and Making It
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Robot or human?

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Best computer speakers of 2020
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Spotify Dives Into Audiobooks With Acquisition of Findaway
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DAC or AMP for Audioengine A2+
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I've been out of audio for a while, so I don't know the brand names and the new hotness anymore. Basically, a book shelf system made of separates. It's just going to be used for background noise and to play podcast stuff. This if for the GF, so something that looks nice would be a bonus.
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