Speaker box building supply

This article is from the rec. An ideal speaker cabinet material would be very stiff, so that it would not tend to move with variations in box air pressure. It would also be very well damped, so that if it ever does deflect from air pressure, it will come back to the original position without resonating. It would also have a very high resonant frequency supersonic , so that low frequency box air pressure would not cause it to resonate. An attractive material is preferred, and additional credit is given for a material which is easy to cut, glue, and finish.

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Content:

• DIY Audio & Video
• New Products for 2022 and Beyond
• Building Your Own Speaker Enclosures - Part 1
• How to Build a Speaker Box
• SoundLink Mini II Special Edition
• Advantages of using wood in speakers
• HIGHLAND INDUSTRIAL SUPPLIES
• How Do Materials Make a Difference in Speaker Construction?
• The 5 Best Woods to Build a Speaker Box
• Build Your Own Speaker

WATCH RELATED VIDEO: Building a custom speaker box

DIY Audio & Video

It was back in that a couple of researchers from General Electric, Chester Rice and Edward Kellogg, patented what remains the basic design for virtually all the world's loudspeakers. In the 84 years since, engineers and enthusiasts have invested a lot of thought and energy in the refinement of Rice and Kellogg's concept, creating a valuable knowledge base for the do-it-yourself crowd.

I should know--I recently built the speakers pictured here, and in the process I learned quite a bit about the art and science of a good speaker. At its core a loudspeaker is a surprisingly simple device.

The key elements are the drivers, crossovers and the cabinet. The cone or dome drivers are transducers that transform the electrical signal into the physical movement of air i. Crossovers act as an electrical filter to split the signal and direct the portions of the audio-frequency range to the drivers best equipped to handle them. But coaxing rich and beautiful sound out of these elements requires a bit of harmonic alchemy.

Every decision you make--from the combination of drivers and crossovers to the material you use to build the cabinet--influences the performance and character of your speakers.

Hardcore speaker hobbyists take delight in figuring all this out for themselves, designing and building the crossovers and enclosures from scratch to see what comes out. If that's your leaning, Parts Express is a well-stocked and reliable source for speaker builders and a good place to start.

But if that's too hit-or-miss, you can buy a speaker kit that comes with all the components, plus either a preconstructed cabinet or drawings to build your own. This little firm is run by George Short, a speaker engineer whose kits use his own driver and crossover designs but require you to buy cabinets elsewhere, or build them using the provided detailed woodworking plans.

The benefit is that someone with know-how and good ears has gone through the time-consuming and costly process of "voicing" the speaker--engineering, auditioning and then re-engineering it until the desired sound is achieved. My own speaker-building ambitions were no grander than to have a little fun, learn a bit and come out with a pair of bookshelf speakers I could put in my home office.

Silk is a material favored by many audiophiles for delivering superb midrange- and high-frequency detail without sounding bright or hard, the way some metal domes can. The simple crossovers--one each for the woofer and tweeter in each speaker--come with the coils, capacitors and resistors hard-wired on perforated breadboards.

That saves some work, but these still must be mounted in the cabinets and wired to the drivers. Building the cabinet was the most time-consuming part of the project, but it allowed me to customize the look of my speakers. It turns out that MDF is not only cheaper, easier to mill and less susceptible to warping and shifting than hardwood, but the difference in densities of the MDF and plywood also reduces cabinet vibrations when you layer them together.

To add rigidity, there is a plywood crossbrace running internally across the width of the box. I painted the fascia and back MDF panels matte black and veneered the top, bottom and sides to effect the look of a hardwood finish. It's an environmentally responsible material made from plantation-grown poplar that's been dyed and grained to match about 30 different common and exotic hardwoods, and it even comes prefinished with a polyurethane coating.

The bird's-eye maple I chose has a tough laminate substrate and ships with a plastic sheet adhered to the finish to protect it during installation. You peel off the sheet after you've cut and applied the veneer--the stunning result is hard to distinguish from real finished hardwood. Invest in a Jasper circle-cutting jig for the driver, port and terminal-cup holes.

One other tip: Invest in a Jasper circle-cutting jig for the driver, port and terminal-cup holes. The jig model , partsexpress. After assembling the cabinet, I used construction adhesive to mount the tweeter and woofer crossovers inside the cabinet to the back and bottom walls, respectively. There's an odd bit of business in the kit's instructions about filling the rear-firing port tube with several dozen plastic straws that confused me at first, but a call to North Creek revealed that the straws help fine-tune the speaker's low-end bass limit.

Then I connected the wires from the crossovers to the drivers on one end and the terminal cup on the other. And, finally, the woofers, tweeters, terminal cup and rear-firing port tube were glued and screwed into place. Though bass was limited by the speaker's size, it was well-balanced, without the inaccurate, bloated sound you hear with cheap speakers purposely pumped up to overcompensate for their size.

The midrange was musical and open, free of the harsh colorations you sometimes hear on vocals. High frequencies were nicely detailed, if a little laid back, and held together well at moderately high volumes for such a compact speaker. For me, speaker building was a rewarding mix of woodworking and electronics--beautiful and functional at the same time.

When friends and family come to visit and comment on the rich, bird's-eye maple cabinets, I'll tell them, "Yeah, I built those. But just listen Left: The jig goes for a spin atop a fascia panel. Right: A milled fascia piece showing holes plus countersinks. Note the dog-ears manually rasped into the tweeter hole to account for its side-mounted terminals.

This was not mentioned in the instructions , which seemed to have been written long ago, and on several occasions didn't fully account for the peculiarities of the included parts. But half the fun is wingin' it. Matte black spray paint for the fascia and black panels.

In the end, getting an acceptably smooth finish required two coats of spray primer and a couple of coats of black enamel. Prep for assembly includes dry-fitting all the pieces and tweaking panels as needed for a perfect fit. For efficiency, assembly involves gluing and clamping the panels together with butt joints, then putting in temporary drywall screws to keep the glue joints tight while you remove the clamps and move on to the next panel.

After the glue drys, the screws come out and the holes and countersinks are filled with wood putty. Screw removal and puttying of the screw holes in preparation for veneering.

The putty is sanded flat once dry. Top: Rough-cutting veneer and its thick laminate substrate with multiple passes of a sharp utility knife.

Bottom: Contact cement is applied to both surfaces and the veneer carefully aligned and layed down. A new rolling pin with an unblemished surface was used to apply maximum pressure rather than the small rubber J-roller commonly used for veneer; the veneer's protective sheathing made it possible to do this without damaging the finish. The veneered box, still with protective plastic sheathing on the veneer, after all sides are completed.

In between panels, the overhanging edges of the veneer were carefully trimmed with a router equipped with a flush-trim bit. Gluing the fascia to the front inner-brace, and the finished cabinet ready for components. Top: Installing the port tube: applying rubber gasket sealing tape, drilling holes in the outer flange, and mounting. Bottom: Once the tube is in, construction cement is applied to the tweeter crossover through the terminal cup hole.

Once dry, the speaker is flipped over and cement is applied to the woofer crossover through the woofer hole. Top: The crossovers cemented in final position as viewed through the woofer hole. Bottom: Crossover input wires are fed through the terminal cup hole. Connecting the crossover input wires to the speaker terminals with a nutdriver, then mounting the cup. Top: Wires for the drivers are fed through the fascia holes. Bottom: Acoustic stuffing is cut and placed behind the driver holes.

The crimped crossover wires are connected to the drivers and the drivers are screwed down. Pin this article for later! For more, follow PopMech on Pinterest. Type keyword s to search. Today's Top Stories. This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below. More From Audio.

New Products for 2022 and Beyond

This is the story of a speaker company that helped shape home theater and even music recording into what it is today. Nobody does it better. This gives us the ability to create the powerful, yet subtle and persuasive soundtracks that are the hallmark of the Star Wars films. Experience bass that is not just heard - but viscerally felt More details. Previous Next. Eddie Simonsen, Mainstream, Copenhagen.

Building Your Own Speaker Enclosures - Part 1

We are happy to take orders via Fax or email. Just fax or email your order to us and we will contact you to arrange payment. We can supply pre-sale invoices for your Purchase Orders. You may also pay by cheque. Cheque should be made out to "Highland Industrial Supplies Ltd". You should allow 7 working days for cheques to clear, after which the goods will be dispatched subject to stock availability. You have the right to cancel an order which is not built to special requirements. These rights are under the distance selling regulations This right ends on the expiry of 7 working days, after the day on which the consumer receives the goods.

How to Build a Speaker Box

The MEC fire-rated speaker enclosure allows installers to meet building codes as well as diminish the undesirable transfer of sound from one room to the other. Designed to fit all Reference Series in-ceiling speakers with 8-inch woofers the MEC allows residential contractors to meet building codes as well as diminish the undesirable transfer of sound from one room to the other. The MEC is manufactured from high-grade cold-rolled steel and features a layer of insulation. It exceeds the one-hour fire-rating requirements and is designed to meet UL requirements for installation in plenum spaces.

SoundLink Mini II Special Edition

Enjoy richly detailed sound and built-in voice control with this surprisingly powerful smart speaker. Two Class-D digital amplifiers have been perfectly tuned to the speaker's unique acoustic architecture. One tweeter creates a crisp high-frequency response. One midwoofer ensures faithful playback of mid-range frequencies and maximizes low-end output. The far-field microphone array uses advanced beamforming and multi-channel echo cancellation for quick and accurate voice control.

Advantages of using wood in speakers

The goal of the program, now in its second year, is to recognize achievement and promote diversity. We hope to help attract more women into the business, encourage those already here to stay, and show them how to reach the C-suite. We'll be meeting live at Fairmont Chicago to celebrate their accomplishments. Honorees are chosen based on nominations from industry peers in the following award categories:. Business Excellence Award. This award recognizes women who have demonstrated achievement, growth and success in the hardware and home improvement industry.

HIGHLAND INDUSTRIAL SUPPLIES

Building a speaker box is the first step to creating your sound system. The design of the speaker box can be as simple or as complicated as you want it to be, but some guidelines will help you get started. Do you love to listen to music on a speaker? Do you have a favorite song that always makes you smile when it comes on?

How Do Materials Make a Difference in Speaker Construction?

RELATED VIDEO: What is the best speaker cabinet material?

First, you obviously need your speaker drivers. These will determine the size of the box. They will also determine your basic budget, since most of the other costs are fixed. Next, you will need 1 or 2 sheets of MDF. Remember, you will need extra wood to brace the box. Other necessities: screws, wood glue, polyfill to stuff the box, silicon to seal the edges optional , and wood sealant to seal the wood itself on the inside of the box.

The 5 Best Woods to Build a Speaker Box

A loudspeaker enclosure or loudspeaker cabinet is an enclosure often rectangular box-shaped in which speaker drivers e. Enclosures may range in design from simple, homemade DIY rectangular particleboard boxes to very complex, expensive computer-designed hi-fi cabinets that incorporate composite materials, internal baffles, horns, bass reflex ports and acoustic insulation. Loudspeaker enclosures range in size from small "bookshelf" speaker cabinets with 4" woofers and small tweeters designed for listening to music with a hi-fi system in a private home to huge, heavy subwoofer enclosures with multiple 18" or even 21" speakers in huge enclosures which are designed for use in stadium concert sound reinforcement systems for rock music concerts. The primary role of the enclosure is to prevent sound waves generated by the rearward-facing surface of the diaphragm of an open speaker driver interacting with sound waves generated at the front of the speaker driver. Because the forward- and rearward-generated sounds are out of phase with each other, any interaction between the two in the listening space creates a distortion of the original signal as it was intended to be reproduced. As such, a loudspeaker cannot be used without installing it in a baffle of some type, such as a closed box, vented box, open baffle, or a wall or ceiling infinite baffle. The enclosure also plays a role in managing vibration induced by the driver frame and moving airmass within the enclosure, as well as heat generated by driver voice coils and amplifiers especially where woofers and subwoofers are concerned.

Build Your Own Speaker

Due to the increasing popularity of customized sub enclosures, we thought that compiling some in-depth information on how to build a subwoofer box will help you through the processes of planning, building, and detailing a subwoofer box of your choice. Learning how to make a subwoofer box helps you to prepare to customize your audio system without spending a fortune. Another important consideration concerns the subwoofer for which you want to build a box.