12by7a amplifier antenna
The User's Manual downloadable above has the "Kenwood Approved" procedure for tuning up the rig starting on page In particular it has a nice chart of initial settings for ALL the controls, which is useful if you have never done this before. The procedure presented here differs in some respects. Later October : I've been doing this a lot now, so I have a short version if you understand the basics above, and have an outboard RF wattmeter like the one in the AT-2x0 antenna tuner series SW This is the heater switch for the tubes. This must be in "ON" position or you will get no output, but the receiver will work normally.
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- 12BY7A/12BV7A GE Sharp Cutoff Pentode(NOS/NIB)
- Leading Book On Tranitorized Communications Equipment
- RCA ANT1750F Amplified Digital Flat Indoor TV Antenna
- 807 tube transmitter
- Station Today – 2020
- 12BY7A Valve Used in FT-101 SERIES
- Yaesu FT-101 Tube Question.
- Yaesu FT-101
- Do I need an antenna tuner?
12BY7A/12BV7A GE Sharp Cutoff Pentode(NOS/NIB)
Here is where I'll try to answer your questions that have not been addressed elsewhere on my site. Please feel free to email with questions you might have. I'll do my best to try to post answers for them here. Please use the FIND command in your browser to quickly search for topics of interest on this page.
You can also search my entire site by checking www. Enter your search terms Submit search form Web www. At some point Kenwood introduced the "Gold" version of the S. The S had a VBT control, which required overlapping of the 2 sets of filters, by varying the heterodyne frequencies, to achieve a variable bandpass. The VBT with the standard filters varied the bandpass from about Hz to 2.
The "Gold" series came with all 4 filters installed. Be advised that many Gold S's today have had their CW filters removed and sold separately. After looking at over TSS's I still have yet to find a Gold that didn't either have the filters installed, or show positive signs of filter removal. This issue will probably remain in limbo, however, until someone finds a brochure or sales flyer touting this "Full Boat" transceiver. People have seen them, bought 's as a consequence, but no one has any real proof.
This should put to rest any controversy, and prove my point once and for all! Thanks, Joe! Since Kenwood used insulated couplers for all of their hybrid models, why do you and many others recommend the use of solid brass couplers on the bandswitch? Shouldn't they be insulated? Because it's much stronger, and perfectly safe. If you examine the Kenwood S final cage, for example, you'll see that two of the three shafts are solidly grounded at the RF cage itself. The bandswitch frame, bushing, and shaft are directly connected bolted to the chassis of the radio.
The load control is mounted solidly to the chassis, with the capacitor frame and shaft screwed right to the chassis at RF ground potential. The tuning shaft on the plate capacitor has an insulated, phenolic shaft going to the coupler. Since I've never seen a broken coupler on this shaft because of the low torque it sees, there is no reason to change out this coupler anyway. Keep in mind that the front panel knobs are insulated as well. In an era of intense competition between Kenwood and Yaesu, to name a few, the use of the "Sears-Roebuck" Good, Better, Best marketing philosophy was put to good use.
The SE eliminated the plug-in line cord and optional DC converter, as well as the filament heater switch. I can't imagine they saved a lot by removing a switch, or the provision for the optional DC converter, but it was a marketing decision.
Otherwise the S and SE are identical. Then where does the TSSP fit in? Kenwood was on the verge of bigger and better things, namely their S and S lines. The SP is a S with an added notch filter.
One of my friends has a D. What the heck is THAT? I think I have one of those also - Buried in my stash of Kenwood radios. The D was a non-export, Japanese market radio. Obviously, a number have made it to the U. I see that there are QRO mods for the Kenwood hybrids, designed to pump their output power up to W or more.
Is that a good idea? I'm not in favor of increasing the power output of the Kenwood hybrid series. One of the reasons these rigs have survived to this point, and that you are reading this FAQ, is that Kenwood designed them conservatively.
They could have squeezed out more power, but opted for a long, reliable life instead. Besides, the difference between W and W output is hardly worth anything - It amounts to 1. Here's a picture that shows a normal plate choke to the left, and on the right, the one in the Kenwood I'd received. It had already been replaced once, and the new improper "replacement" is already turning black.
I think my receiver in my Kenwood needs alignment. Is there a quick way to check the overall condition of the receiver? Kenwood provided a pretty nice 25KHz calibrator in all of the models. It improved with time, but even the first TS provided a usable test signal.
On most Kenwoods in good, original condition, where the internals haven't been tampered with too severely, on 20M the calbrator should measure S-9, or close to it. Set your receive frequency to If it reads S-9, your alignment may be OK. On most rigs Remember they are 20 to 35 years old , I can achieve about S-Units of improvement during the alignment, many more if the unit has been subjected to mobile or field-day abuses.
Keep in mind that a previous owner may have simply cranked up the S-Meter pot, throwing off your measurement, but if it's YOUR rig, you can accurately asses it this way.
I have hum on my SSB signal. Several stations have complained about it, should I send my rig to you? Before you send it off for repair, a simple check might solve your problem. If your microphone is mis-wired, and I have seen a number that are, you will get hum on your signal. If pins 3 and 4 on your microphone connector on the microphone cord itself are connected, you will have hum.
When I switch my Meter to RF, it reads low high, or not at all. What should it read? Kenwood included it as a means of peaking your forward power, if you didn't have an inline power or SWR meter. In early hybrids, the adjustment was inside the side panel door, along with the VOX controls. On later hybrids, it's on the back panel. You then use it as a relative reference for forward power, much as you would use a power meter. I've read where certain resistors in the hybrids served double-duty as fuses.
What gives? Usually the resistors, if you overload your rig for extended periods! That gives me an immediate indication of whether the rig has seen some abuse during tune-up or operation. Kenwood made the cathode and screen resistors in the final section just large enough to do their job, with a little room for beginning operators learning to tune it up properly.
Before any real damage can occur to the expensive items, like the power transformer priced one lately at kenwoodparts. Cheap, simple, and quick to replace, they have saved many, many Kenwood hybrids from the bone-pile. See my further description HERE.
How can I tell when my cathode resistors are cooked? The easiest way is to measure them, with a zero-adjusted ohm-meter.
You can see tell-tale signs without opening the case, however. The plate current metering is read from the cathode voltage, and the higher the cathode resistance, the higher the plate current reading. Also, the lower the output power. If you read high plate current and low output power, those cathode resistors are probably climbing in value! The plate current is actually lower than what you are seeing, and the output power is just confirming it.
Time to order some replacement resistors! How do I know when I have bad final screen resistors? The final screen voltage directly affects your output power. It is the basis of most QRO mods, just raise the screen voltage beyond the Kenwood design values, and viola!
More power!. Again, the failure mode of resistors is to go UP in value when they are getting cooked, and that will also lower the screen voltage in the Kenwoods. If your fresh finals are not providing an honest W output, and if you have plenty of drive, it's probably a good time to check your screen voltage, and the value of the Ohm and Ohm resitors in series with the screens. There can be other causes, but let's go with the most common, and check those resistors first. How can I tell when my finals 's are getting "soft?
Tubes go "soft" when their cathode emissions begin to drop. That means that for a given set of circumstances, plate voltage, screen voltage, drive level, etc. When this happens, plate current begins to fall off, output power starts to drop, and we start to increase the LOAD control and re-dip to maintain the power output. As we increase the LOAD control, and more heavily tax the finals, the tuning starts to get broad, with a much less pronounced "dip. Finally, we're seeing 70W out on 20M with very broad plate tuning - It's time to replace the finals.
Fortunately, for Kenwood, this can take over 35 years, depending on your operating habits, as I get lots of rigs with the original S tubes in place, almost as good as new! When should I replace my 12BY7A driver tube? The ALC metering directly measures the performance of your driver tube. Usually, when the tube starts to go soft, it will be hard to obtain full ALC swing on the highest bands. As long as you have sufficient drive to get well into the ALC range on the bands that you work, the tube is fine.
Leading Book On Tranitorized Communications Equipment
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RCA ANT1750F Amplified Digital Flat Indoor TV Antenna
In the HF bands I have been using homebrew equipment since I got a transmitting license in The transmitting power is about 50 Watts. The Windom FD3 is another antenna that I am using and that works very well. It is for 40, 20 and 10 meters but, with an antenna tuner it is working from 80 to 10 meters without any problems. My new QRP homebrew multiband transceiver already on the air but its output is only mW. I have had some good QSO with mW both in the 80 and 20m bands. Reports of 57!!!!! I prefer the HF noise!!!!!!.
807 tube transmitter
The network resistors should bear the ratio of If in doubt as to the ratio of the resistors you use, double-check their values on an accurate bridge. The adjustment of the phase shift network now consists only of setting the four capacitors to their proper values,. An audio oscillator capable of operation from to cycles per second with good waveform is required, plus an oscilloscope.
Station Today – 2020
Yaesu FT is a model line of modular amateur radio transceivers, built by the Yaesu Corporation in Japan during the s and s. FT is a set that combines a solid state transmitter, receiver and a tube final amplifier. Its solid state features offer high-performance, low-current characteristics and its tube amplifier provides an almost mismatch-resistant transmitter and tuner stage. FT's were made with plug-in circuit boards that could be sent to the dealer or factory for replacement or repair. Until then, modular design was unprecedented in the amateur community. This also explains the fact why so many FT's are still in use today.
12BY7A Valve Used in FT-101 SERIES
JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. Not finding what you are searching for. Try a partial part number. Sharp Cutoff Pentode. Runs off F eatures high transconductance, high power sensitivity, and low interelectrode capacitances.
Yaesu FT-101 Tube Question.
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Yaesu FT-101
Measures 6" x 7" x 7" high. Hermetically sealed. Drives plates of 2 A's. Our cookies contain no personally identifiable information PII. They are simply a unique serial number used to recognize this unique browser session. More Images.
Do I need an antenna tuner?
You are going to have to check with used and NOS tube dealers. I don't believe that 6JS6s are made anymore. You will have to pay up for them, too. If the tubes are different brands, you may have some trouble neutralizing them. Some manuals really make it seem complicated. Basically you adjust the neutralizing cap so that the current dip coincides with max out.
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ha, cool!
I find that you are not right. I'm sure. I invite you to discuss. Write in PM.