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Model: 46CXA Step 2. The RCA connector is a coaxial connector that is simply pushed into its socket with your bare hand. Three sets of RCA outputs will almost always produce four speaker signals and two subwoofer signals for use with multiple amplifiers.
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This installation guide walks you through the process of installing a new car stereo. Please read over these guidelines before beginning the installation in order to give yourself an idea of what to expect. When installing a new stereo in your car, your first step will be to remove the old stereo. Pay close attention to the steps involved, for the process for installing your new stereo will be the same, but in reverse. They will walk you through the process step-by-step. Otherwise, you may use the general guidelines below.
Before you begin, start by setting the parking brake and removing the negative cable from the car battery to prevent accidentally short circuiting something. If the stereo is held in by spring clips, you'll need a pair of DIN tools. Insert the DIN tools into the holes on eitter side of the unit until a click is heard. The tools serve to release the spring clips and also hook onto the sides of the stereo so that you can pull it out easily.
Spread the tools apart slightly then pull the stereo out of the dash. Sometimes, accessing the stereo requires the removal of one or more trimpanels from the dash. You may have to carefully pry the plastic trim away from the dash which is often secured by hidden pressure clips , or locate and remove bolts to disassemble other pieces of panel.
Once you have gained access to the factory stereo, removal should be obvious. The stereo will almost always be secured by four screws, sometimes bolted directly to the front of the dash, other times secured to side brackets. Remove the screws and pull the stereo from the dash.
American cars built before the early s often came with a "shaft-style" stereo, which secured to the dash via nuts and washers to the right and left knobs.
A shaft-style stereo must be installed from behind the dash. Getting it into position is the tricky part, since your vehicle's wiring, heater controls, and ductwork may be in the way. If your vehicle has or once had a factory stereo, or if it was pre-wired with a "stereo prep" package, there should be at least one plastic wiring harness behind the stereo opening. This plug connects the stereo to your vehicle's electrical system, and also makes the speaker connections.
You will need to unplug the factory stereo from the wiring harnesses, and unplug the antenna to complete the removal process. If Crutchfield carries a custom wiring harness for your vehicle, you can use it to connect your new stereo to your vehicle's factory wiring harnesses.
This will ensure that everything works seamlessly, just like the factory stereo did. These harnesses usually include a stereo wiring diagram for connecting the harness to you new stereo.
You new stereo will also include a radio wiring diagram in the owner's manual. Refer to the two diagrams to confirm the car stereo wire colors that need to be connected to the adapter harness. If a harness is not available for your vehicle or if the factory stereo plug was cut off, you'll need to identify each of the stereo wires and connect them to the corresponding wires of your new stereo.
If you purchased your new stereo from Crutchfield, our Tech Support team may be able to tell you the colors and functions of your car's stereo wires. Decide how you want to connect the wires together. Crimping is fast and fairly simple. If you crimp the wires together, be sure to use the correct size crimp connector — typical in-dash stereo wires are gauge, but a few use heavier gauge power and ground wires. There are several types of crimp connectors, including bullet connectors, butt connectors, or crimp caps.
Like crimping, you'll want to make sure you have the right wire gauges for the job. Soldering creates a permanent, professional connection that ensures maximum current transfer. We strongly recommend that you use heat-shrink tubing and a heat gun to insulate the soldered connection. Avoid taping the wires together — the tape will dry out and fall off, exposing the wires and making it only a matter of time before something shorts out.
Usually, it is best to make all of the new stereo's wiring connections via the wiring harness, but if you have to make a direct power connection, you'll need to know the difference between "switched" and "constant" power. A switched power source is only on when the ignition is keyed. Connect your new stereo's main switched power lead — usually a red wire — to a switched power source, so that the stereo will turn off when you turn off the car, and not drain your vehicle's battery.
A constant power source is always on. Connect your new stereo's memory lead — usually a yellow wire — to a constant power source, so that you don't lose your stereo preset, sound shaping, and clock settings every time you turn off the vehicle. A rare few high-powered stereos require you to make a direct constant power connection at the positive terminal of your vehicle's battery.
This requires a heavier gauge power wire, an in-line fuse usually included , and a ring terminal to connect the power wire to the battery clamp. You will have to route the power wire through the vehicle firewall and into the engine compartment in order to make the connection at the battery.
A good ground connection is vital for proper stereo performance. If you are not using a custom wiring harness, look for a bolt, screw, or wire that contacts the bare metal of your vehicle's chassis.
Loosen the bolt, slip the ground wire underneath this is almost always a black wire , then tighten the bolt. If your ground wire doesn't contact bare metal, your stereo won't operate. A loose or weak ground connection can result in signal noise interfering with your music. If your new stereo has a video monitor built in, you will also need to connect a wire to your emergency brake wire.
This wire acts as a switch to turn on the video monitor when the parking brake is engaged. Follow the instructions included with your in-dash monitor to locate the emergency brake ground wire. And once again, Crutchfield's award-winning tech support team can be a big help here.
If the original stereo was bolted into the dash, you might need to remove the mounting brackets from the sides of it and attach them to the sides of your new stereo. If a mounting kit is required, follow the instructions included with the kit. Sometimes you install the kit in the dash, then slide the new stereo's metal mounting sleeve if included into the kit. Secure the metal sleeve by using a screwdriver to bend the sleeve's metal tabs into place Figure 2.
In other cases, you attach the mounting kit to the new stereo first, then secure both in the dash with screws. Once the dash opening is ready for the new stereo, hold the stereo near the opening. Connect the stereo wiring adapter to the vehicle's wiring harness and plug in the antenna cable. Slide the stereo into the dash opening, but don't fasten it down just yet.
First, test the stereo to make sure everything is working properly. It's easier to fix a problem while everything is still exposed. You'll have to reattach the battery cable in order to test the stereo, so if you disconnected any airbag warning plugs, be sure to reattach those before reconnecting the battery. Then adjust the balance and fader settings to check that each speaker is working.
Once you're sure the stereo is wired and working properly, finish securing it in the dash and reinstall any pieces of dash trimpanel that you removed.
A mounting bracket — or backstrap — is often included with new stereos. For most installations, a backstrap usually is not a necessary part of the installation process. However, it can be useful to help support the stereo in your dash; it also helps reduce vibration. One end of the backtrap attaches with a screw to the rear of the stereo. The other end attaches to an existing bolt or screw behind the dash.
Just bend and shape the backstrap as necessary to enable mounting. An adapter allows you to use a new stereo with your existing speaker system. And you'll get it at a deep discount when you buy any car stereo from us. This adapter allows you to install an aftermarket stereo in a up Chevy Camaro's dash panel, while maintaining all heating, ventilation, and air conditioning controls. Products Car Audio. Car Video.
Radar Detectors. Custom Rims. Bluetooth Hands Free. Car Alarms. RV, Boat, Motorcycle. GPS Navigation. Sirius XM. Safe Drive Systems.
Window Tinting. Car stereo installation guide In-dash Stereo Installation Guide This installation guide walks you through the process of installing a new car stereo. You can also download a pdf of the Car Stereo Installation Guide. Tools Needed depending upon vehicle Remove the factory stereo. How to wire a car stereo If Crutchfield carries a custom wiring harness for your vehicle, you can use it to connect your new stereo to your vehicle's factory wiring harnesses.
Connection options Decide how you want to connect the wires together. Ground wire A good ground connection is vital for proper stereo performance. In-dash video — tapping into the emergency brake wiring If your new stereo has a video monitor built in, you will also need to connect a wire to your emergency brake wire.
How to install the new stereo If the original stereo was bolted into the dash, you might need to remove the mounting brackets from the sides of it and attach them to the sides of your new stereo. Can you do it?
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Car speaker connector adapters
A soundbar is the simplest way to get a theater-like surround-sound experience in the home, and the Samsung HW-QA soundbar offers the best all-around package, with simple setup, excellent performance, and an abundance of feature and connection options. Some of the latest soundbars include subwoofers that our measurements show are competitive with standalone subs. The Samsung HW-QA sounded the best to our panelists, creating realistic surround sound without extra speakers. The soundbar incorporates front speakers, upward-firing speakers, and side-firing surround speakers to produce a room-filling sound with music and movies, and the relatively compact, wireless 8-inch subwoofer offers plenty of deep bass with lots of punch and satisfying couch shake. Optional surround speakers are available. The HW-QA also has an effective and useful adaptive system that eliminates the need to change sound modes based on the type of content like movies, music, or sports. The Vizio Elevate is the best soundbar for those who want a complete system that includes a subwoofer and separate rear speakers. The bar features a pair of motorized front speakers that automatically turn upward to bounce sound effects off the ceiling when playing Dolby Atmos and DTS:X content, and it also includes rear speakers with their own upward-firing drivers built in. The wireless 8-inch subwoofer has impressive low-bass output, although not much upper-bass punch. The Elevate is packed with great features, including two HDMI inputs, Bluetooth and Chromecast music streaming but not AirPlay 2 , numerous sound adjustments, and a dedicated signal-sensing input that lets you connect an Amazon Echo Dot so that the soundbar works as a smart speaker.
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Car stereo installation guide
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