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1u amp wiring

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Home Solutions Forums Welcome. Enter your search term here New support ticket. Check ticket status. Legacy Forum Post started a topic over 7 years ago. What is the best, most efficient way to wire this setup?

Thanks in advance! Legacy Forum Post said over 7 years ago. Also, how can I chain the amps together? Hi gots2drum, I design professional sound systems and I'd be happy to help you with your questions. Perhaps you mistyped these model numbers? I did type it in wrong OK, that's better. You have two full-range 15"; loudspeakers, plus two 18"; subwoofers. These are quite powerful.

Each CV can take up to W of amplifier input. Each CWV can take up to W of amplifier input. Each PS will supply W of power when presented with a 4-ohm load this is the impedance of your loudspeakers. The amplfiers are two-channel amplifiers. I would hook up one full-range loudspeaker and one amplifier to each amp - connect them individually and do not use the bridge mode. You will want to be sure the level controls for the two sides are the same for each channel.

You might want the level controls for the full-range loudspeakers to be different from the level controls for the subwoofers. Be aware that the full-range loudspeakers you have have a coverage pattern.

They disperse sound nominally in a degree horizontal coverage and a degree vertical coverage, when the loudspeaker is oriented vertically.

I see many bands mount this sort of sound system with the loudspeakers mounted horizontally, because it is much more stable for transportation. Some loudspeakers have rotatable horns to accommodate this, meaning that the horn and the loudspeaker cabinet can be rotated in opposite directions and the proper coverage pattern can be maintained it is generally desirable to cover more horizontal area than vertical, based on the shape of the listening area.

Your loudspeakers do not appear to have rotatable horns, so be aware of the changes in coverage you will get if you have them horizontal. This will continue the signal out of your mixer to the 2nd amp. This is the crossover part of the amp. The speaker will only take frequencies below this dial, so you can fine tune your subs to function as high as you would like. I have found to be best. I would highly recommend you contact them and purchase this kit.

This will enable you to use 1 speaker cable from the sound cart to each set of speakers. It will include 2 75' 4 pole speak on cables, 2 6' speak on cables, a 1U rack panel with speak on attachments to the amps, and a small wiring kit for your subs with instructions on how to install and implement the entire kit. Also, I would recommend you upgrade these cables to having metal ended speak on attachments for the wear and tear on the cables. Ask for Jonathan when you call.

What Joe has said about the horn facing on the s is spot on. Many people will set the down sideways on top of the s, but the horn is not as effective this way.

For this very reason, I will often advocate the use of 2 CV on top of the subs instead of the This way, you get two horns and twice the coverage horizontally. With that being said, the cabinet of the s are made out of a different type of wood and sound great, especially for drum set and more ";punchy"; lows. Feel free to contact me at [email]tom marchingaudio. Here is the 2nd pic for the sub woofer. Cool, a true expert with exactly this application in mind has spoken!

Tom, why not wire the amps like I suggested one main and one sub out per amp? Wouldn't this prevent the need to cascade the input from amp 1 to amp 2, as well as provide a simple connection from ";L"; on the mixer output to the ";L amp";, and ";R"; on the mixer output to the ";R amp";. And one minor correction: it's one word, ";Speakon";. Joe, I tend to use one amp per speaker type; one for the full range and one for the subs.

The way you suggested would work also. I want to note that I usually recommend not running the amps all the way up. I usually keep the dials on the front of Yamaha amps between -6 and This leaves you some ";headroom"; if you want to turn things up universally in a different venue and room to get the ";mix"; right between the speaker types.

Don't go below -6 as you can be shortchanging your speakers need for power to get a good quality sound. Many people will have you turn the amp all the way up. I just like to leave a little bit of space there in case I feel the need to crank everything up to 11 even though there are multiple scenes you are going through on your digital mixer.

Hey guys! I sincerely apologize for not responding sooner, but I have been going through some family issues here recently which has absorbed every waking minute! Anyway, onto bushiness! You guys have gone above and beyond! This is such an awesome community to be a part of! I will let you guys know how things work out once I start plugging everything in!

Again, thanks so much for your time! Percussively, Ricky Morrow. Thanks for the help Joe and Tom! You guys are out of this world awesome! This setup is what I was wanting to do! Maybe you can help me out with 2 more things I tried a lot of different things, and noticed if I had the mains -3 or -6 and the subs matching there wasn't much clarity. To achieve clarity I had to back off the sub amps between or Does that sound right to you? Right now its flat Also, do I need a crossover to help balance the speakers?

Tom, I contacted McCormicks and this is what I got from them. We didn't purchase our subs through McCormicks Anyway, here is what they said. If you did not get the subs through us you'll still need the 3' patch cords, but not the 1' ones and there would be a different set of cables you'd need instead of the Pro Wiring Kit. However, the answer to your question might depend on the input EQ on one or more of your channels.

What instruments are you mixing, and are you amplifying them with mics or using direct input? You might just have one or two inputs that are very bass-heavy, and rolling off the low-end on those inputs might mean you can bring up the sub output.

Output EQ is generally a tool for matching your loudspeakers to your venue. For fixed venues you can adjust this using an analyzer and pink noise and try to achieve a flat response. Indoor venues sometimes need to contend with room modes. Outdoor venues, especially large ones, sometimes need to contend with ";air loss"; the absorption of high-frequency sound by the air. For a constantly-changing venue I don't think there's any point to messing with output EQ.

It will never be right unless you have lots of time to sound-check the venue. With marching band, that time generally doesn't exist. You could conceivably do it for your home venue. Legacy Forum Post said about 7 years ago. Hey Everyone, great information here! This helps a lot, and I may have my system not wired the best! I'm going to make some modifications and see if that helps. My question however, is that we want to add another Sub to our system.

Our show this year needs A LOT of bass you know the kind where your seat in the stadium rattles!! Is the too much? Should I continue the loop from AMP 1? What would be the settings for AMP 3?

Frequency dial settings? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!! More topics in Tapspace "Watercooler" legacy.


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1u amp wiring

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Home Solutions Forums Welcome. Enter your search term here New support ticket. Check ticket status. Legacy Forum Post started a topic over 7 years ago. What is the best, most efficient way to wire this setup?

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